Let me be upfront with you: I did not go to Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party.

I know. I know. It’s basically the reason the island exists on the backpacker map. But I arrived fresh off Koh Tao, recovering from norovirus, having spent New Years Day (thankfully I still had a great NYE) in a state that was considerably less glamorous than I’d planned — and what I needed was a beach, a sun lounger (it was more of a bean bag) and absolutely nothing else.

And that’s exactly what I got.

So if you’re coming here hoping for a Full Moon Party guide, I’m not your girl for that one. But if you’re wondering whether Koh Phangan is worth visiting when it’s not party season, or whether there’s actually anything to the island beyond the raves — read on. Because the answer is yes, and it might surprise you.

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How I Got to Koh Phangan

I came over from Koh Tao by ferry, which is the most common route and takes around an hour to an hour and a half depending on which service you take. After the notoriously choppy crossing to Koh Tao that left me seasick and deeply regretting my life choices, I made sure to take travel sickness tablets this time. Learn from my mistakes — always have them in your bag before you get anywhere near a Thai ferry terminal.

You can book ferry tickets between Koh Tao and Koh Phangan in advance through 12Go Asia — worth doing in peak season as seats do fill up.

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Where I Stayed: Phuwadee Resort, Nai Pan Noi Beach

This was the best decision I made on Koh Phangan. Rather than staying in the main Haad Rin area where the Full Moon Party happens — which is busy, loud and not exactly conducive to recovery — we headed to the north of the island and stayed at Phuwadee Resort on Nai Pan Noi beach.

And honestly? It was perfect for what I needed.

Nai Pan Noi is a quieter, more secluded beach on the north east coast. The resort sat right on the beach — genuinely right on it, you could hear the waves from bed — and the whole vibe was peaceful, unhurried and exactly what my norovirus-ravaged body needed. The weather wasn’t the best while we were there but it was still warm, and even on cloudy days the beach was beautiful and calm.

A short walk from the resort there was a little street with shops, bars and restaurants — nothing huge or overwhelming, just enough for food, drinks and the basics. It had that lovely quiet island energy where you eat well, drink something cold and watch the sun go down without any pressure to do anything else.

If you’re looking for that kind of Koh Phangan experience, I’d genuinely recommend basing yourself in the north rather than the south.

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What Koh Phangan is Actually Like Without the Party

Here’s the thing about Koh Phangan that doesn’t get talked about enough: it’s a genuinely beautiful island. The Full Moon Party has become so synonymous with the name that people either go purely for that or skip it entirely, and I think both camps are missing something.

The north of the island especially has this incredibly peaceful, tropical feel. White sand, clear warm water, jungle-covered hills — it’s stunning. And because most of the backpacker chaos congregates around Haad Rin in the south, the rest of the island feels like a completely different place.

I spent most of my time doing very little — reading on the beach, eating, sleeping, slowly feeling human again after Koh Tao. And it was genuinely restorative. Not every stop on a backpacking trip needs to be action-packed and Koh Phangan was the most unlikely place for that.

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Getting Around Koh Phangan

I’ll be honest — Koh Phangan is an island where a scooter would make a real difference. The roads are hilly, distances between beaches are significant, and public transport is limited. If you can ride, renting a scooter is the obvious way to explore properly and see more than just the beach in front of your resort.

I chose not to — I’ve written about my feelings on renting mopeds without knowing how to ride in my Pai post and the same logic applied here. Without a scooter I was limited to where I could walk to, which in Nai Pan Noi meant the beach and the little strip nearby. For my rest and recovery trip that was absolutely fine, but if I went back with more energy and more time I’d want to explore more of the island — and for that you really do need wheels.

Taxis and songthaews do exist but they’re more expensive and less convenient than just having your own transport. If you’re a non-rider like me, just factor this into how you plan your time and pick your base carefully — staying in a spot you actually like rather than planning to explore widely.

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If you’re planning a trip, check out True Traveller here — it’s what I personally use and recommend for fellow backpackers.

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Should You Go to Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party?

I can’t give you a first-hand answer on this one because I wasn’t there for it — but based on what I saw and heard, here’s my honest take.

If you’re a party person, the Full Moon Party is a bucket list backpacker experience and I’d never tell you not to go. It draws tens of thousands of people to Haad Rin beach every month and by all accounts it’s an extraordinary, chaotic, unforgettable night.

But I’d say two things. First: the island is genuinely worth visiting even if the Full Moon Party doesn’t appeal to you. The beaches, the pace, the food, the quieter northern coast — there’s a whole other side to Koh Phangan that most people never see because they’re either there to party or avoiding it because of the party reputation.

Second: if you do go for the Full Moon Party, consider staying a few extra days afterwards. Give yourself time to actually see the island beyond Haad Rin. Come to the north, find a quiet beach, eat some good food. The party is one night — the island deserves more than that.

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Koh Tao vs Koh Phangan — which is better?

Since I went to both back to back, I get asked this a lot. Honestly? They’re completely different islands and serve completely different purposes.

Koh Tao is my favourite place on my entire Southeast Asia trip. The community, the snorkelling, the vibe — I was obsessed and I still think about it. If you read my Koh Tao review you’ll know exactly how I feel about that island.

Koh Phangan, particularly in the north, is the antidote to Koh Tao. It’s quieter, slower, more about beautiful beaches and doing nothing than activities and socialising. After the chaos of New Year on Koh Tao and a norovirus episode I’d rather forget, Koh Phangan was exactly what I needed.

If I were advising a friend, I’d say do both — Koh Tao first for the energy and the snorkelling, then Koh Phangan for a few days of recovery and beautiful beach time. They complement each other perfectly and the ferry between them is short.

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Is Koh Phangan Worth It?

Yes — but maybe not in the way you’re expecting.

If you’re going for the Full Moon Party, absolutely. If you’re going for beautiful quiet beaches, warm water, good food and a place to properly decompress mid-backpacking trip, also absolutely. What I didn’t expect was to find an island with this much peaceful charm hiding behind its party reputation.

Nai Pan Noi beach specifically has a piece of my heart. Quiet, warm, unpretentious and gorgeous. If you’re feeling the need to slow down on your travels — and at some point on a long backpacking trip you will — the north of Koh Phangan is a very good place to do it.

Enjoy your Travels!

Em x

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