There’s a reason we travel that goes beyond the sights.
We might book a flight to tick another country off our list — but the moments that stay with us are almost always about people.
That’s exactly what I was reminded of during my time in a small homestay in Muong Hoa Valley, near Sapa Town, Vietnam. I went looking for something “authentic.” What I found was something far more powerful: genuine connection, unforgettable meals, and an experience that went on to change a family’s life — all because I shared it on TikTok.
Finding a homestay in Muong Hoa Valley
Sapa town itself isn’t the sleepy backpacker village I’d imagined — it’s a bustling spot popular with Vietnamese tourists. Lovely in its own way, but I wanted something quieter, something more rooted in local life. The authentic Sapa if you will.
We had heard that one of the best things to do in Sapa is to book a homestay and go trekking. On what almost became a daily Booking.com search for accommodation in the next place we decided to go to, I stumbled across a homestay listing that had good reviews and seemed like what we were looking for. Although it felt like a bit of a gamble.
The homestay was made up of a main house where the family lived and a separate log cabin for guests. It turned out that both his home and the guest cabins were hand-built by our host, Asua, with the help of his local community. We had our own space — a cosy log cabin with a fireplace, one double bed and one single, an en suite bathroom, and a view so breathtaking it looked like a painting every time we opened the door.
A Warm (If Quiet) Welcome
I’ll admit, I was apprehensive when we arrived. I’d never stayed in a homestay before, and no one seemed to be around. Later we learned that the whole group was out trekking with Asua. His wife, who doesn’t speak English, kindly welcomed us and showed us to our cabin. You’ll find a welcome booklet in your cabin that explains how everything works, including optional extras like meals and trekking tours, which you simply pay for at the end of your stay.
It wasn’t until everyone returned that we met Asua himself — a kind, generous host who instantly made us feel part of the family. Asua and his wife have four children – two younger and two older. The eldest boy was away at university Asua told us and the oldest girl spoke great English and helped her mum with the meals and around the house when not at school.
Their warmth was genuine. You could tell this wasn’t a job to them — it was their way of life, and we were invited into it.
Life in the Valley: Meals, Treks and “Happy Water”
Guests are given a choice: you can keep to yourself if you prefer, or you can share meals with the family in the main house. I’d strongly recommend the latter. We had every meal served in the family’s main home. Asua’s wife did all the cooking — and the food alone is reason enough to visit. We’d sit on tiny stools around a low table, sharing food with fellow travellers — a couple and a solo traveller all from different countries in Europe — and swapping stories about our cultures. Steaming dishes laid out like a buffet in the middle of the table. It was the best food I had in the entirety of Vietnam. The spring rolls were unforgettable, and I never knew pumpkin could taste so good.
Asua’s wife cooks all the meals from scratch. I’m vegan and they were more than happy to cater for me with just a heads-up.
In the evenings, you’ll almost certainly be offered “happy water” — a traditional rice wine brewed by Asua himself using rice from his parents’ rice fields. One night, we even went out to a local bar where Asua joined us for a game of pool.
It was simple, but it was meaningful. The kind of moment that fills you up in a way no fancy hotel ever could.





Trekking with a purpose
The day after we arrived, we joined the others for a gentle trek through the valley. You can choose your route and difficulty level — just chat to Asua and he’ll tailor it to you. Our hike was scenic and steady, perfect for taking in the views of grazing buffalo, cascading waterfalls, and empty rice terraces.
At one point, my foot slipped off a terrace and landed in a puddle — soaked and muddy — but even that couldn’t dampen the beauty of the landscape or the joy of being out in it.
We were super lucky with the weather — cooler November temperatures but bright sunshine all day.
What to Pack for Sapa
Sapa is much cooler than Hanoi, especially in the winter months, so be prepared. Here’s what I recommend packing:
- Layers for warmth (fleece, jumper, light jacket)
- Waterproof or windproof coat
- Trainers or hiking shoes with grip
- Small backpack for trekking
- Snacks if you get peckish on hikes
- Sunscreen and sunglasses (yes, even in November!)
nights at the local bar
On our first evening, after dinner, we wandered down the lane to a local bar with the others. We drank and chatted and played pool. The following night Asua asked if we were going again and whether he could come to. He said he usually wouldn’t ever go unless guests wanted to of course. So he came with us. It wasn’t a “tour” or an “experience” — it was just a real evening, shared with real people.
That kind of unscripted connection is exactly what I needed. It reminded me that the best travel stories aren’t the ones that happen in museums or on sightseeing tours — they’re the ones that happen when you’re sitting around a dinner table, laughing over mispronounced words and second helpings.
From TikTok to Real Life Impact
After we left I made and posted a TikTok about our stay. A few weeks after, we were days away from leaving Vietnam having travelled from the north down to the south, when I got an unexpected message on Instagram. The account wasn’t familiar, but the name was: Asua. I opened it to find a video of guests at his homestay — people who had travelled there after seeing my video.
That floored me. It reminded me that as travellers, especially as travel creators, we have the power to shape stories that matter. Not everything we post needs to be curated or commercial — sometimes, the most authentic shares do the most good.
Then came more messages — not just from him, but from travellers too. Asua messaged me again, asking if he could call. At this point I was in Thailand, still backpacking, so we organised a day and a time to call. He told me that at least four or five groups of guests had come because of my video. He was so grateful, saying how much busier they were becoming and how the exposure had genuinely changed life for his family.
Since I’ve been back home a girl messaged to say: “Asua told us ‘Since Emily from England posted on TikTok, our life changed.’” To which she told him, “We booked because of Emily too!”
I never imagined a 60-second video could ripple so far.
Planning your own stay in Muong Hoa Valley, Sapa
- Location: Muong Hoa Valley, near Sapa, Vietnam
- Getting there: 15 minutes from Sapa Town by taxi. You can either ask Asua to organise transport or book a Grab.
- How to book: We found the homestay on Booking.com (search “Sapa Hmong Bungalow Homestay”)
- Meals: Optional — but highly recommended
- Trek options: Customisable depending on your ability and interest — just talk to Asua
- Best time to visit: We went in November — cool but sunny, ideal for trekking. September is the best if you want to see the rice fields in all their glory.
Reminding me why I travel
This wasn’t a luxury resort or a once-in-a-lifetime bucket-list experience. It was better.
It reminded me that the real value of travel lies in human connection — in choosing the path that leads you to someone’s dinner table instead of a five-star breakfast buffet. In slowing down long enough to listen, to laugh, to learn.
I didn’t just leave with beautiful memories. I left with a deeper appreciation for what it means to be welcomed — and the quiet power of showing that welcome to others.
If you’re heading to Sapa… don’t stop in town.
Go further. Stay with a local. Eat with a family. Trek through the hills. Share stories around a tiny, wooden table.
We scroll. We book. We move on. Sometimes travel can feel like a checklist — another stamp in the passport, another photo on the feed. But this homestay reminded me why I fell in love with travel in the first place: for the human connection.
For a few days in the Muong Hoa Valley, I felt part of something real. I watched as a father shared stories with strangers. I laughed around tiny stools over bowls of steaming rice and noodles. I realised how much my TikTok — just a compilation of videos — meant to someone else.
Travel can change lives. Sometimes theirs. Always yours.
Enjoy Your Travels
Em x
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